The Westernmost
Region of Russia:
Kaliningrad
Baltiysk
Zelenogradsk
in 3 Days

We left home very early. When you wake up for something other than work, you get up with anticipation. At the airport we finally felt awake. I enjoyed the gloss of shops and laid-back people around.

It felt saddening in Duty Free. I held in my hand a tiny piece of fabric that cost a fortune from Victoria’s Secret. This brand isn’t available in Russia anymore. I know there are things much more important than fancy clothes. Things are different now.

We are going to Kaliningrad. A spontaneous trip to at least some sea. I promised myself that this was just the beginning and the next time I would be at the airport for a bigger occasion. "Everything will be fine," I close my eyes with a sigh. For now — Kaliningrad.

During the trip we were lucky with the taxi drivers. A first gray-haired native of Kaliningrad driver complained that in recent years the city has been rapidly built up with cardboard boxes for humans.

The political situation makes people rediscover this region. For some, this is a chance to start over, but for others, it is a cause for concern. "Kaliningrad is still unusual Russia. But newcomers want to make it ordinary Russia." — our companion remarked displeasedly. I have nothing to add looking out at the strange mix of two-story German houses and gray high-rise buildings.

A good day starts with a good breakfast. "Morning Prosecco" on the menu hinted that this was a nice place, and it turned out to be true. Absolutely everything is delicious here. Aesthetic interior. Plenty of beautiful people. I was sipping my morning cocktail and eating my quinoa porridge, and watching the line, where every second woman was an Instagram model. I already like this Kaliningrad.

A gigantic Gothic cathedral in the middle of the square, the aroma of mulled wine and pastries, a New Year’s fair… It's like you’re in a European town celebrating Catholic Christmas rather than in Russia. That’s not surprising, Königsberg was a German city and after The Second World War it was ceded to the Soviet Union and renamed Kaliningrad.

We visited the grave of Immanuel Kant on the island. The great philosopher spent most of his life in Königsberg.

What to bring from Kaliningrad? Marzipan from the Pomatti! I don’t have a photo of the marzipan because I ate it all. This is something that should be brought from Kaliningrad in large quantities (because you will eat half of it on the way home).

Why whale-fisher? This occupation was assumed to be honorable and mysterious in Kaliningrad. The city used to prepare for the arrival of whaling ships, wives shopped for groceries and did general cleaning for the arrival of their husbands from long voyages.

The museum exhibition invites visitors to feel like a resident of a communal flat of the Soviet period. For one hour we walked from room to room along with an audio play in which the locals shared stories about life in Kaliningrad in the 1960−80s. All artifacts in rooms are genuine that visitors can interact with. I’m still impressed with the museum, a brilliant idea and execution.

After the museum we were starved. We ordered a taxi and went to an Italian restaurant.
— Thank you, I said to the taxi driver.
— "Thanks" doesn’t warm my body, he replied.
On that philosophical note, we jumped out of the taxi and ran to get our pizza.

In order not to get bored while we were waiting for our meal, we took an ice cream. It was a luscious gelato made right in the restaurant. The verdict: a cozy place with delightful cuisine as if you visited a family restaurant in Italy.

The town didn’t greet us warmly. It was already getting dark. Freezing rain, not a soul about only solitaire figures of military men rarely appear on our way. Since Baltiysk is the main base of the Baltic Fleet, jammers are used everywhere. Frozen with a non-working navigator we intuitivelly went to the water where a crossing is supposed to be. We were laughing although this laughter was more like hysterical. At least, in any case where you want to cry you can laugh.

The pearl of Baltiysk is the swans that inhabit here all year round. They live near the lighthouse, opposite the old Hotel "Golden Anchor".

A dubious-looking vessel stood on the water. "There is no way that’s ours", I said, waiting to see at least a boat. My friend, who was moving to Olkhon Island at the same crossing, replied with a smile, "This is exactly us." It took 5 minutes to cross to the Baltic Spit where our house was located.

So, behind us were the airport, Kaliningrad, Baltiysk and the crossing. Eventually we can take a rest. When I was looking for accommodation for us, I came across a site with an appealing description "Glamping at World’s End". The World’s End was exactly what we needed.

Hidden in the dunes on the Baltic Sea coast, the houses looked like something out of a movie. In the summer there is no need to go to town. On the glamping territory you can go SUP or yacht riding, sunbathe, go to the sauna and SPA, watch an open-air movie or spend the whole day in bed enjoying the panoramic view from the window.

In December the solitude of this place is especially noticeable. It was as if I was in a Nancy Drew game where the only guide to the outside world was the glamping administrator and the rest of the time you explored the game’s Universe. And there was a lot to explore.

Next day we grabbed a bit with the excellent (included in the stay), we went to research the Universe of The Baltic Spit. We ran through the dunes, searched for amber on the beach, and climbed through the abandoned bunkers of the Neutief artillery battery. It was quiet and deserted, only the sound of the sea and us. We wanted to get to Poland along the Baltic Spit but then we still needed to go to Zelenogradsk.

Have you noticed weird futuristic orbs in the trees like giant nests? This is a disease. Mistletoe is a parasite that settles at the top of a tree and grows into a round bush. It is almost impossible to get rid of it. If you cut it off, it will grow back. This phenomenon has long become an integral part of the Kaliningrad landscape.

On the road from Baltiysk to Zelenogradsk I interviewed the next taxi driver. He moved to Kaliningrad from Siberia with his family several years ago. He said, it’s not reasonable to go to overcrowded St. Petersburg or Moscow anymore, all that’s left is Kaliningrad. It seems that the Kaliningrad region has become another attractive center of internal migration.

"It's still possible to buy goods from IKEA here. People are bringing antiques, washing machines, and TVs from Germany," the taxi driver bragged leading to thoughts about the cyclical nature of history. "Europeans like to come there because there are their relatives and low prices relative to the euro. They do shopping here (which seems wild to us, because the majority of foreign brands have left the market). A lot of Germans who left Kaliningrad in the 90s are returning now, Europe isn’t considered as a calm place anymore. We actually saw cars with German license plates and heard Polish speech on the streets.

The first thing you think about when you go out to the embankment, is "I want to live here." There are many temptations: European charm, Russian speech, mild coastal climate.

I couldn’t comprehend how such pedants as the Germans managed to build such fantastic buildings? The impression was further reinforced with a festively decorated main street. According to insider information, the taxi driver said that the shops in the city center compete for the most beautiful New Year’s facade, so Kurortny Prospect looks like a valley of Christmas elves.

A story started with a sauna in the gym… I involuntarily overheard a conversation between two girls who were resting after their training.

"There is no Christmas mood at all. I remember before, you could go to Finland on the weekend to do some New Year’s shopping. We went to IKEA to feel the New Year’s atmosphere," the first girl said.
"Yeah, now we have to find joy in little things. You can learn it immediately but if you train your mind, you will begin enjoying simple things," the second one replied with Stoic wisdom.

This short psychotherapy session suggested several thoughts:

✤ We are all in the same boat. We all feel the same. When you realize that your sadness is not personal, its significance is erased.

✤ We must not let any circumstances deprive us of joy. Joy is our birthright. And it is a feeling that can be learned in any condition. Be prepared that it is work, just like training in the gym or learning languages.

✤ Rules are getting rougher from year to year. Now we have to figure out more sophisticated methods to live a pleasant life (going to IKEA for the New Year was cheaper than going to Kaliningrad). But, you know, along with the difficulties we grow. I prefer to regard it as the gemstone faceting.

I don’t know the name of an invisible enemy which we struggle with when we act against the circumstances — we enjoy, try, achieve. But that’s our primary duty to fulfill our hearts with hope and faith in the best no matter what. Or, as my favorite writer said, "The only way to go is to go on. To say, ‘I can do this' even when you know you can’t".

Published
26/01/2025

Text and photos were created by the author of the blog. You can contact me on Instagram or by email hey.dear@icloud.com.